Center-city Metropolis Ginza - quiet backstreet Yanaka Ginza

Then over to the Ginza to change more money - initially thought a better deal for my Traveler's Checks could be received at an American Express office (this is true in Europe - no service charge), but a futile search for their local bureau was eventually terminated by a telephone call which revealed they don't cash their checks in Japan, must go to a bank instead - so I did, a Fuji Bank, after some bookstore browsing at Jena in the Ginza.

Then I had one of the Little Adventures in Tokyo, provided by a somewhat obscure little guide I came across by chance a few months back. This one was the chapter titled "A Walk Through Old Tokyo" and out of all that book's excellent information, it's the adventure I followed the closest, using the text's map and detailed instruction. ("Cross the red bridge and walk around the shrine... take the alley in front..." etc.) Initially it took me through a delightful little "pocket" park called Sudo Koen, then on to the winding neighborhood shopping street of Yanaka Ginza, where I bought some green tea at a shop called Kamekichi Tea Merchants. Although I didn't plan on a souvenir tea purchase until later, the place was so nice and they serve everybody a cup, I couldn't resist. The path continued, meandering around this neighborhood, through a graveyard (not a common sight, since cremation's the norm in this crowded land) and onto a region dense with temples, shrines, and little shops - I was reminded of Kyoto. At one point I discovered a viable ryokan, and took one of their brochures for reference, next trip.

Eventually, feet and legs aching, I returned to Gotanda, exploring the area around the hotel, which is dense with eating and entertainment establishments. For dinner I had some grilled chicken at a rabata-ya called the Yakitori Akiyoshi, which I decided (based on the slick presentation encountered within) must be part of a chain.

Next: Kamikaze